The region of present-day Georgia contained the ancient kingdoms of Colchis and Kartli-Iberia. The area came under Roman influence in the first centuries A.D. and Christianity became the state religion in the 330s. Domination by Persians, Arabs, and Turks was followed by a Georgian golden age (11th-13th centuries) that was cut short by the Mongol invasion of 1236. Subsequently, the Ottoman and Persian empires competed for influence in the region. Georgia was absorbed into the Russian Empire in the 19th century. Independent for three years (1918-1921) following the Russian revolution, it was forcibly incorporated into the USSR until the Soviet Union dissolved in 1991. An attempt by the incumbent Georgian government to manipulate national legislative elections in November 2003 touched off widespread protests that led to the resignation of Eduard SHEVARDNADZE, president since 1995. New elections in early 2004 swept Mikheil SAAKASHVILI into power along with his National Movement party. Progress on market reforms and democratization has been made in the years since independence, but this progress has been complicated by Russian assistance and support to the breakaway regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia. After a series of Russian and separatist provocations in summer 2008, Georgian military action in South Ossetia in early August led to a Russian military response that not only occupied the breakaway areas, but large portions of Georgia proper as well. Russian troops pulled back from most occupied Georgian territory, but in late August 2008 Russia unilaterally recognized the independence of Abkhazia and South Ossetia. This action was strongly condemned by most of the world's nations and international organizations.

Tbilisi — the beautiful and interesting capital, Georgia's largest and most cosmopolitan city

Tbilisi is the capital city of the country of Georgia, lying on the banks of the Mtkvari river. The city covers an area of 726 km² (280.3 square miles) and has more than 1.345.000 inhabitants

Akhaltsikhe — the small capital of Samtskhe-Javakheti is near two fabulously beautful tourist destinations: Vardzia and the Sapara Monastery

Akhaltsikhe Castle

St. Marine's Church

Sapara Monastery

Sapara Monastery (საფარის მონასტერი) is about 10-12 km outside of Akhaltsikhe up into the mountains. The monastery was established in the tenth century, but the principal church, St. Sabas, was built sometime in the thirteenth century. Until the twentieth century, the monastery had been perfectly preserved, as its hidden location saved it from Ottoman discovery throughout the empire's three-century long control of southwestern Georgia. Alas, the Soviets found it, and abused it in the usual soulless fashion, albeit not to the same extent as many other Georgian Orthodox establishments—the frescoed walls were not whitewashed, and remain in good condition (especially following a recent restoration). During a visit, make sure to climb up the nearby slopes towards a rocky outcropping to get lovely views over the monastery and the valleys in the distance. Also make sure not to use flash photography in the churches, unless you want to see some seriously angry monks. If you can make yourself understood, you can overnight in the monastery's chambers.

Khertvisi Fortress

Khertvisi Fortress (ხერთვისის ციხე) looms over the village of Khertvisi. The outcrop was used as a fortress from the second century B.C., and was reputedly destroyed by Alexander the Great. The "modern" fortress, however, was built around the thirteenth-fourteenth centuries, and saw fighting during the Ottoman invasion (and subsequent occupation) in the sixteenth century. The walls on the far side drop down a sheer cliff to the Mtkvari far below, so if you fancy a bout of vertigo, pull yourself up and look straight down.

Batumi — the palm tree lined capital city of Ajara on the Black Sea, near some good swimming

The Black Sea: In Batumi you can enjoy the waves and admire the beach and the port itself. Also see the following: Nurigeli lake, Oceanarium (locally called a delphinarium), beautiful beach park, orthodox, catholic, armenian churches and an old mosque. City centre is interesting for its distinctive 19th century Imperial style architecture. Between Poti and Batumi lies Kobuleti, an unsinspiring albeit cheap beach resort, where many Georgians and Armenians spend their holidays. There is not much to be seen, beside the pebble beach. However the peak which you have to pass on the road to Kobuleti is beautiful and you can check out the remains of Petra Fortress overlooking the beautiful sea landscape. To the south of Batumi visit the remains of Gonio Fortress and the village of Sarpi - where a Georgian-Turkish border starts.

To the north of a city - an absolute must see is a Batumi Botanical Garden, more than a century old. Georgia has a remarkable tradition of (royal) botanical gardens. It is a quiet spot, next to the Black Sea on a high cliff and it both green and cool. Take marsrutka no. 1 along the coast north until the endpoint, where you find some refreshment stalls.

Gori — Stalin's hometown, located next to yet another cave city

Stalin Museum

The Stalin Museum is the highlight of a visit to the city of Gori. Behind its faux-Venetian facade is an impressive museum filled with paraphernalia and media documenting the life and careers of I.V. Jughashvili. The museum's portrayal of Stalin is one-sidedly nostalgic, which can be jarring for visitors, but the exhibits are actually quite well done and there are ample Georgian babushkas throughout the museum who will be more than happy to elaborate on the exhibits and answer questions. Unfortunately, the exhibits are overwhelmingly in Russian and Georgian, to the disadvantage of most Western visitors. But the main show requires no language—Stalin's death mask. Stalin's bronze death mask is not so exciting in and of itself, but the lighting and bizarre, personality cult-chic, red velvet display will surely elicit goose bumps. At the ticket office, ask about an English or German-speaking guide. They are sometimes available and will often show you the inside of Stalin's home and train car.

Stalin's Birthplace

If we are to believe the plaque, Stalin's birth house now resides within a cage of neoclassical Doric columns. There is not much here for the visitor other than a creepy photo opportunity and the plaque which reads in both Russian and Georgian

Stalin's Statue

Few of the many statues of Stalin throughout the former USSR have survived to this day and Gori's is certainly one of the most magnificent and well-kept. This large statue stands in front of Gori's city hall, located up Stalin Ave. from the end of the main square, opposite the Stalin Museum. There are two other Stalin statues in Gori: a replica of the main statue is in Stalin Park and the second—of Stalin as a young man—can be found beside Gori State University.

Uplistsikhe

The Fortress of the Lord) is easily one of the oldest existing cities in Georgia, although it is now uninhabited save tourists. Founded in the sixteenth century BC and carved out of rock, this was a bustling city over 3000 years ago and was, before the introduction of Christianity in the fourth century, a major regional center of Caucasian pagan worship. After Saint Nino converted King Mirian II of Iberia, the pagan temples of Uplistsikhe were sacked and the city went into long-term decline. Its decline was hastened by devastation at the hands of the Mongols in the 12th century, although it remained inhabited, serving as a stop along the Silk Road until the 15th century.

Highlights not to be missed include: a Hellenistic amphitheater overlooking the Mtkvari river where residents of Uplistsikhe once enjoyed Greek-style performances, a functioning 9th century church built atop the ruins of an ancient pagan temple to the Caucasian sun god, a once pillared seat of kings, and a fun cave tunnel leading out of the city to the riverside. Also be sure to note the round storage spaces once used for wheat and the shelf-like spaces for medicinal herbs—a veritable bronze age pharmacy!

Uplistsikhe is of considerable historical interest and is properly enjoyed with a guide. Chances are good that your guide will find you before you ask (there is not much alternative employment in this area) and there is a good chance of finding an English-speaking guide on site.

Uplistsikhe suffered long years of neglect and vandalism and is currently undergoing significant restoration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Accordingly, certain areas may be closed off from direct contact during your visit, although all sites will still be viewable.

Goris Tsikhe (Gori Castle)

Goris Tsikhe stands at the heart of the city atop a large hill and is the only structure in town that can dwarf the Stalin statue. According to locals, Goris Tsikhe's most notable moment in world history occurred in the first century BC, when it was conquered by the Roman General Pompeii. The current ruins are more recent, however, having been built after the Mongol invasion. There is not much to see inside the ruined castle's walls, but there are nice views of the city and the surrounding dark green plains of Shida Kartli. The approach to the ruins was recently repaved and the surrounding area cleaned up, but the site remains free and the only price of admission is the short, steep walk up the path.

Gori Jvari (Gori Cross)

The church at Gori Jvari stands on a outcropping of rocks and can be seen from practically anywhere in Gori. Originally built in the 12th century, it was burned down by the Turks, rebuilt, and destroyed again by an earthquake in 1920. The current church was built in the 1980s. On days commemorating St. George (November 23 and April 23), Gori residents flock to the church with sacrificial sheep. The sheep are walked around the church three times, and in accordance with Orthodox tradition, are taken just off the church grounds for slaughter. On a clear day, the view of the Caucasus from the church is spectacular.

Kutaisi — Georgia's second city and the historic capital of ancient Colchis, home to two UNESCO World Heritage sites

Bagrati Cathedral

Gelati Monastery

Mtskheta — the historic former capital of Georgia, the center of the Georgian Orthodox Church, and another UNESCO World Heritage site is an easy day trip from Tbilisi

Svetitskhoveli (The Life Giving Pillar) Cathedral

Svetitskhoveli is one of the most sacred places in Georgia and, along with Jvari Monastery, the clear highlight of a trip to Mtskheta. It was founded in 1010, built on the site of Georgia's first church, and contains the graves of the ancient Georgian kings, including Sidonia, who was said to have been buried holding Christ's robe. There are many (unaggressive) beggars at the entrance gate.

Jvari Monastery

The 6th century monastery of Jvari is situated on a cliff above Mtskheta. It is the culmination of a number of artistic and architectural aspiration in early Christian Georgian architecture. The view from above is great.

Be sure you travel there when there's clear weather and before dusk.

Samtavro (Place of the Ruler)

Samtavro is located to the north up the main road, within easy walking distance from the Svetitskhoveli complex. According to legend, St. Nino actually lived on this site and prayed within the smaller of its two extant churches. This small church dates from the 4th century. The larger church on this site was built in the 11th century and contains the graves of Mirian, the Georgian king who adopted Christianity, and his wife.

Bebris Tsikhe (The Elder's Fortress)

Located further up the main road from Samtavro, the ruins of Bebris Tsikhe are fun, if a bit dangerous, to climb on for views overlooking Mtskheta and the valley formed around the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers.

Sukhumi — the capital of Abkhazia is a beautiful beach resort up against the mountains, but has suffered from the war and economic embargo

Although most of the major sights of the city were destroyed by the war, Sukhumi's principal attraction remains intact: an almost tropical climate with beaches, mountains, lakes, palm trees, and the like. Also the ruins of the buildings, most famously the old government building, are an attraction of a sort unto themselves.

Telavi — the capital of Kakheti is a good jumping off point for nearby wineries, castles, and monasteries

Alaverdi Cathedral

Built in the 11th century this is the second highest cathedral in Georgia.

Church of St. George

Tsinandali Gardens

The residential palace of the Chavchavadzes family.