Ahmad Shah DURRANI unified the Pashtun tribes and founded Afghanistan in 1747. The country served as a buffer between the British and Russian empires until it won independence from notional British control in 1919. A brief experiment in democracy ended in a 1973 coup and a 1978 Communist counter-coup. The Soviet Union invaded in 1979 to support the tottering Afghan Communist regime, touching off a long and destructive war. The USSR withdrew in 1989 under relentless pressure by internationally supported anti-Communist mujahedin rebels. A series of subsequent civil wars saw Kabul finally fall in 1996 to the Taliban, a hardline Pakistani-sponsored movement that emerged in 1994 to end the country's civil war and anarchy. Following the 11 September 2001 terrorist attacks in New York City, a US, Allied, and anti-Taliban Northern Alliance military action toppled the Taliban for sheltering Osama BIN LADIN. The UN-sponsored Bonn Conference in 2001 established a process for political reconstruction that included the adoption of a new constitution, a presidential election in 2004, and National Assembly elections in 2005. In December 2004, Hamid KARZAI became the first democratically elected president of Afghanistan and the National Assembly was inaugurated the following December. Despite gains toward building a stable central government, a resurgent Taliban and continuing provincial instability - particularly in the south and the east - remain serious challenges for the Afghan Government.

Kabul - in the east, the capital city

Babur Gardens

The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor Babur. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in Agra, and later moved to this spot. It's a popular park with Afghans for picnics and lazy afternoons. 10 Af for locals, 250 Af for foreigners.

Bagh-e Zanana (Women Park)

Park dedicated for women only, renovated and nice place to enjoy the outdoors.

Lake Qargha

described as Kabul's lake district, only 9km from the city.
Spojmai restaurant provides international cuisine.
Swimming and boating are popular on the lake with plans for water skiing and jet-skis in the future.

Bagh-e Bala

Another famous park in the city.

Kabul Zoo

6AM-6PM daily. The zoo is very popular with Afghans, and houses over 100 animals, albeit in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main donors of animals in the zoo, but after the death of a few animals to disease and malnutrition, China has announced that there will be no donations until living conditions improve. 'Marjan' the lion, which was blinded by a grenade, was the main draw of the zoo, but has died recently. 10 Af for locals, 100 Af for foreigners.
Afghan National Museum, (several miles from the city center, across from Darulaman Palace). 10am-4pm weekdays, 10am-1pm Fridays. The Afghan National Museum once housed one of the greatest collections of Central Asian artifacts in the world. A large percentage of the previous collection was looted in the 1990s during Taliban rule after the upper floors of the museum were bombed. Many of the early Buddhist treasures were destroyed by the Taliban at the same time as the Bamiyan Buddhas. Looted items still turn up around the world at auctions. The museum is open once again, with far more modest, but still impressive, displays of early Buddhist and Islamic artifacts. free, donations welcome.

Balkh - an ancient city in the north, its history still palpable

Shrine of Khoja Abu Nasar Parsa

Shrine of Khoja Abu Nasar Parsa - also known as Bala Hasar, dominating the park in the center of the town sits this 15th century shrine, built in the Timurid style.

Dargah of Rabia Balkhi

Dargah of Rabia Balkhi - adjacent to the Parsa shrine is this small tomb of the famous female Persian poet. She was sealed in a basement by her brother after having an affair, and wrote her most famous poem in her own blood on the wall as she died.

Noh Gonbad (Haji piyada) mosque

Noh Gonbad (Haji piyada) mosque is well worth a visit. Its history is unclear but it is certainly one of Afghanistan's most important historical buildings. Possibly dating from Zoroastrian times the remains are now under a protective roof, and are worth the bumpy 2km drive from the main Balkh - Mazar road. Head south from the centre of Balkh, cross the main east-west road and keep going. After 500 metres you'll see a sign (in English) telling you to turn right.

Bamiyan - The remains of the Buddhas. Once considered one of the wonders of the world, these tall stone carvings were destroyed by the Taliban in a notorious act of cultural vandalism.

The ruined Buddhas

The ruined Buddhas are the main reason that most people visit Bamiyan. Created in the 6bth century, they long were the largest in the world and a pilgrimage site for Buddhists. Over the centuries they were damaged by various invaders, and in 2001 the Taliban declared them 'un-islamic', rolled in tanks and destroyed them completely. All that remains are the 'footprints'.

Caves

Caves are abundant throughout the mountainside, many of them used as residences. It's best to observe from a distance, out of respect for the residents and for you safety.

Shahr-e Gholghola

Shahr-e Gholghola is a fort high above the town that gives some of the best views of the entire valley.

Herat - in the west, gateway to Iran, has a strong Persian influence and several interesting historical sites

The Friday Mosque

The Friday Mosque is more than 800 years old, full of life and incredibly beautiful. Its minarets dominate the old town.

The Citadel

The Citadel is in on a hill to the west of the old city, with great views overlooking the city. It has recently reopened to visitors after being used by the military to store ammunition for the last few years. It has a great and eerie deserted feel, and you're free to roam and climb around all you want - however, be a little careful, some of the paths are slightly precarious. On the way out the guards may try and stab you with a $5 entrance fee, which they have tickets to back up... this is an outrageous fee, and you can get by with $1 or $2 if you're willing to argue, which you should.

Musalla Complex

Musalla Complex, about 2 km due north of the Citadel. Once a collection of minarets, a mosque and a medressa, all that remains is 1 minaret with a hole blown out of one side, leaning at a precarious angle and supported by cables. Near this is the large domed tomb of Gowhar Shad, who commissioned the original complex.

Minarets of Sultan Baiqara

Minarets of Sultan Baiqara, next to the Musalla Complex. The 4 minarets are all that remains of the medressa that he built. The new Iranian-built road cuts directly through them, two on each side. Most of the once beautiful blue tiling has vanished.

Tomb of Jami

 Jami was a very famous 15th century sufi poet. His tomb is highly revered, and popular with local women. To get here, walk roughly a kilometre north from the Baiqara minarets along the main road. When you get to a junction with a large monument in the center, look out to the left and the large building that looks like a mosque is the one. There is a taxi stand near the junction if your out of steam or heading to Gazar Gah (50 Afg) or Takht-e Safar.

Gazar Gah

Gazar Gah is the large and famous sufi shrine of Khoja Abdullah Ansari. His tomb is the large blue structure at the back. There is no entrance fee, but donations are appreciated.

Takht-e Safar

Takht-e Safar, a very old and famous park situated near the mountain close to Gazar Gah.

Jalalabad - in the east, between Kabul and the Khyber Pass

Hada

Hada' Museum' related to before islam period. This museum is located to the south of Jalalabad city.

Palace (Shahi Qasar)

Palace (Shahi Qasar) was used by the former king Zahir Shah as kingdom palace during winter.

Mazar-e Sharif - home to the impressively tiled Blue Mosque, and the staging point for trips into Uzbekistan

Shrine of Hazrat Ali

Shrine of Hazrat Ali (the Blue Mosque) marks the burial site of Ali bin Talib, the Prophet Mohammad's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam. At night the mosque is lit by coloured lights. However, due to many homeless sleeping in the surrounding park, it is not advisable to walk around at this time.

Ancient Greek relics